Просьба сволочью не считать ,но переводить лень.
Since I am guilty of @sses up other threads about engine builds I thought I would compile a list of recommendations for new members.
Please do not ass the thread up. This thread is for informational purposes only for the benefit of new members who are interested making
their B-Body go faster.
Experienced members please feel free to add and/or correct.
I am sharing my experiences in the hopes of saving new members time and money.
Here we go with a simple stupid basic check list to help get you started with making your B-Body to go faster:
1. Decide on a performance goal and budget and stick with it. Research and research and research more. Talk to local B-Body club members about your goals. Search this Forum. Compare setups, engines, cams and heads here: http://dan.esteban.com/impalass/Retu...dClass=6&Sort=
2. Do all the basic stuff first like a tune up and "free" mods like the throttle body bypass. Here's a good thread to get you going with affordable modifications: http://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...d.php?t=105623
3. Help your engine breath with a do it yourself "Home Depot" & "swiss cheese stock air box" cold air induction system or spend the money for a nice RAISS system. You can save $ here because the performance gains are very small between the do it your self system and the high end RAISS. Go here: http://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...d.php?t=197683
4. Help your engine exhale with headers and cat back exhaust. There are some very affordable budget headers like Afterburners and Clear Image Budget headers. Clear Image and FocuzTech sell Tri-Y headers that are more expensive but worth every penny in quality, fitament and performance. There are several "cat back" exhaust systems offered. Go with 2.5 inch diameter pipes. Check out the Dynomax, Hooker and SpinTech cat back systems. More details here: http://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...d.php?t=197098
5. Upgrade your valve springs and rockers. There are a few after market valve spring kits but Comp Bee Hives seem to be the #1 choice. Go with a 1.6 roller rocker for the stock cam. Do not buy cheap roller rockers like ProForm. They break. I recommend Comp Pro Magnums. Note that aftermarket cams require valve srings and roller rockers that maximize their lift. Your head porter and cam maker will spec the correct springs and rockers. See # 8.
6. Get a quality torque converter. Do not cheap out on a TC. Yank is a top choice. I do not recommend higher than a 3000 stall on a stock engine. With a 350 heads & cam, 355 and 383 engine you can go as high as 3000+ for street and track. I recommend adding a HD fined trans cooler for the life of your TC and trans. Also, if you set in a lot of traffic, putting the trans in neutral helps.
7. For a street/track combo, go with 3.73 gears. They are fine on the street, highway and get the job done at the track. When you do your gears, invest in a new HD posi. I recommend Torsen clutchless posi so you never have to rebuild your posi again.
8. Heads. Ai http://www.advancedinduction.com/, LE http://www.elliottsportworks.com/policy.html and Mike Harris are some of your top choices for head porters. Dan Fahey is a option if you want to port your iron heads. Mike and Dan are veteran members of the Forum. Commercial "off the shelf" or "out of the box" heads can be expensive and not perform as well as having your stock heads worked over by the previously mentioned porters. If you have money, you can purchase new heads from Trick Flo, Dart or AFR and have Ai, LE or Mike port them. The GM aluminum heads are easier to port compared to the irons. The GM stock iron heads flow more then the stock GM aluminum heads. Got it?
9. Cams. If you go with Ai or LE have them recommend a cam that will match the heads they built for you. For stock LT1 engines, the Crane 227 & GM 845 are great cams. Yes, there are many other cam options, but with out a doubt the 845 & 227 have consistently proven to be performers. The GM LT4 Hot cam will need more stall and gears to be maximized. The GM LT4 Hot heads & cam kit was a great setup originally designed for Corvettes with 6 speeds and at first was the only option for us a long time ago. As noted above you will need more stall and gear to maximize the LT4 Hot cam. There have been many better head & cam options offered since the LT4 Hot cam.
10. Strokers. This is where things get very expensive IF you want this done correctly the first time. You do not want to cheap out here. Buy a quality forged rotating assembly and heads & cam from Ai and LE to take advantage of the extra cubes. Throwing stock heads or some commercial "off the shelf" heads on top of a 383 will not maximize the potential of the stroker.
11. Builder: "There are good parts and there are good motors, don't confuse the two." Mr. Mike Harris. If you can not do the engine build yourself, this is another area that is critical with going with experience and quality. The LT1 is different than a normal Chevy Small Block in some areas. You want a builder who knows the difference. My #1 recommendation is Karl Ellwein or Mike Harris. If you go this route on the cheap be prepared for sub par performance and quality. You will spend more money in the long run because the engine you were in such a hurry to have is slow or blows up on you. Also, be aware, many builders have taken customer parts to build them the dream engine to only find out that all your parts you gave to the builder are not in your dream engine.
12. Programming. You need an experience programmer who knows his stuff. I recommend with going with a max WOT timing of 33. I have used Bryan Herter at PCMForless. There is Ed Wright and others. Notice I did not say anything about HyperTech programmer. It's only good for CELs, gears & wheel size adjustments.
13. Stock intake, throttle body and MAF sensor. The stock intake is fine. If you go with heads & cam and stroker have Ai or LE port your stock intake. Go with a BKK 58 mm throttle body if you are going to add heads & cam. If you are not going with high performance heads & cam, a 52mm TB will do. The only MAF you need is an GM F-body one. Again, only if you are going with heads & cam or stroker.
14. Lightening your B-body for racing. Things to lighten the weight of our heavy cars: lite wheels, trans cross member, bumper supports, and aluminum drive shaft. There are many other little things that add up like removal of the air pump system. You have to decide how far you want to go like living without AC.
15. Transmissions. 6 speed conversion kits are available. As for the stock trans, she's eventually going to give it up when you start adding more TQ because the 4L60E is not design to handle much HP & TQ. So, when you go with your heads & cam or stroker be prepared to invest in a built 4L60E. There are other options, but I do not have any expeirence with diferent transmissions like the Turbo 350. Again, a proven experienced builder is a must. Talk to Shane at CPT or Dana at ProBuilt. There may be local options, but again, ask other B-body owners in your local clubs.
16. Brakes and suspension. Now that your ride is fast it would be wise to invest is quality pads, rotors, brake lines and tires. Do the Proportioning and Metering bolt mods if you have 4 wheel disc brakes. Stiff Bilstein shocks are great if you want a firmer ride. Coil lowering springs are a personal preference. Vogtland, Hotchkis and Eibach are good decisions. Upgrade your rear lower control arms. Hotchkis and UMI are good choices. Leave the rear uppers alone because they flex. If you go with solid aftermarket uppers you risk cracking the frame. For sway bars look at Hotchkis, BMR, HA and HO. Go here for details: http://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...d.php?t=218123
17. Hooking. With all of your new hp & tq, you're going to need some drag radials or slicks to hook. I recommend going with slicks on some lightweight wheels. Not only will this help your times, your back will thank you. You'll need a drive shaft Safety Loop if you use slicks.
There are many other little things like electric water pumps and plugs. I just wanted to provide a basic recommendation for the major areas that you would address if you want to go faster. Please note, there are many other ways to go faster. This thread is hear to give you a basic foundation start with and experienced experts that you should go to for heads, cams, strokers, engine builds, trans, etc... Also, note, many of the vendors/experts are Forum members and B-body owners.
